- Type: Rosaceae
- Flowering Period: June, July, August, September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, vinous
- Perennial
- Winters
- Sun loving
- Loving
With the advent of September, a crucial period begins for rose growers. The flowering time for many varieties has already passed, and it's time to prepare the bushes for wintering. If you outline in three words what constitutes caring for roses in autumn, then it will be: pruning, transplanting and creating shelter for the winter. We have already written about the features of autumn pruning and the rules of sheltering roses, therefore we will devote the article to other autumn works, which are no less important for the life of plants.
September: the last feeding and preparation of landing pits
Potash and phosphorus fertilizing
Care for roses in September begins with feeding the bushes. Abundant flowering takes away a lot of nutrients from the bush, so you need to restore balance to strengthen the roots and branches. Feeding is carried out either with ready-made solutions / granules, or phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are bought separately. They stop the growth of roses, accelerate the lignification of shoots and increase the resistance of bushes to frost.
The fertilizer should not contain nitrogen, because it affects the vegetation, increases the volume of green mass of plants, and in autumn this is just not necessary. If the overgrowth of young shoots is provoked by top dressing, then this will only weaken the bush and reduce the probability of a normal wintering. And all green branches will die anyway from frost.
Pinching also contributes to lignification of the shoots. A week after feeding, all the tops of the branches must be cut off in a sector to remove the growth point.
Irrigation reduction
In September, drying flowers continue to be cut and they cease cultivating soil and watering, thereby stopping the growth of new roots. The root system must ripen in order to successfully withstand the winter. Even if all the shoots freeze, then one sleeping bud is enough to make the bush come to life again. But this requires powerful, healthy, mature roots.
But in the middle of the month you can start preparing the land for planting young bushes. There is a rule for rose growers: if you want to plant a rose in spring, prepare land for it in the fall. Therefore, in September, they are closely engaged in soil preparation for the future rosary.
You can learn more about how to create a beautiful rose garden yourself from the material: //diz-cafe.com/ozelenenie/rozarij-svoimi-rukami.html
How to prepare the ground for future planting?
Having decided on the place of the rosary, outline the location of each bush with pegs. Consider their size in adulthood, because strong thickening will not allow plants to grow normally. They will begin to infect each other with fungal infections and will be poorly ventilated. In addition, the lower part of the bush will begin to turn yellow, and the leaves will begin to crumble. But too rare landings are also disadvantageous. In this case, weeds begin to spread around the rose, and the earth quickly overheats.
Focus on the following numbers:
- 30 cm - between miniature roses and a patio;
- half a meter - for floribunda and tea roses;
- 70 cm - between the repair;
- meter - between the climbing ones;
- one and a half - between park and semi-flat.
Also, material on the features of planting and caring for a climbing rose will be useful: //diz-cafe.com/rastenija/posadka-i-uhod-za-pletistoy-rozoy.html
If roses are planned as part of a composition, then free space should be provided between them and other plants so that pruning can be carried out and covered for the winter without prejudice to other flowers.
We select the depth of the landing pit:
- If the soil on the site is rested, and previously nothing grew on it, then all the land that you will dig from the pit can be used to prepare a fertile mixture.
- If all the land for the rosary was specially brought, then they dig a hole, focusing on the length of the roots + 15 cm. So, for planting roses with roots of 40 cm, dig a hole 55 cm deep and half a meter wide.
- On poor sandy or clay lands, pits are created deeper - about 70 cm to fill them with fertile soil.
Depending on the number of planting pits, the required amount of soil mix is prepared, being guided that about 2 buckets of land will go to each bush. The whole mixture is created in the following proportion (1 part - this is 1 bucket): 2 parts of fertile soil + part of sand + part of peat + part of humus + 0.5 part of weathered clay + part of turf land.
Mineral fertilizers are added to this composition: 2 cups of bone meal + 2 cups of ash + 2 cups of dolomite flour + 100 gr. complex fertilizer for roses. All components must be kneaded by sprinkling on a sheet of tin or film, and then scattering into the planting pits.
Advice! If you do not find bone meal in garden shops, head to the animal nutrition department. It can be sold there as a food supplement.
October: planting and transplanting young plants
In October, autumn rose care comes down to planting and transplanting young plants, as well as cleaning the soil from falling leaves and other debris. In adult plants that do not need replanting, they cut off all the leaves so that they do not take food from the roots. The time has come for the bush to prepare for winter, and the gardener will facilitate this task by cutting the leaves and young branches.
Let us dwell on the planting of young roses:
- If seedlings were bought with an open root system, then they are soaked in water with a biostimulator a day before planting.
- Before planting, each bush is checked, completely foliage and spoiled or unripened branches are cut, and also the aerial part is shortened. The optimal height of the bush is up to 35 cm. Higher plants tolerate winter worse.
- The root system is also checked and if rotten roots are found, then they are cut out. Too long roots (over 30 cm) shorten.
- If sleeping kidneys are found below the vaccination site, they are removed, because it is a wild shoot.
- For disinfection, each bush is sprayed with iron sulfate.
Bush planting:
- Before planting, the root system is dipped into a mash of clay and mullein, and then lowered into the hole.
- In each hole a mound of prepared soil mixture should already be poured.
- The plant is placed on a knoll, straightening the roots on the sides of the peas. In no case do we wrap the roots up, but only down.
- The place of vaccination should fall below the soil level by 5 cm (in climbing ones - by 7-10 cm).
- Holding a seedling with one hand, they add the earth to the soil level with the other, immediately compacting with hands.
- After planting, they trample the ground with their feet and water abundantly.
- If after watering the vaccine is too deep, the rose is slightly raised and more soil is added.
- When the moisture is completely absorbed, the bush is spudded to a height of about 20 cm.
You can learn about how to grow a rose from a stem from the material: //diz-cafe.com/vopros-otvet/razmnozhenie-roz-cherenkami.html
By the end of October, climbing varieties are removed from the trellis and gradually bent to the ground, while the branches are supple.
November: preparing for the frost
Care for garden roses ends in the fall in November. This is the month of preparing the bushes for wintering. And you need to have time before the onset of stable frosts to create shelters, bring spruce branches from the forest or buy lutrasil. Read all the details and options for shelters for roses in the article "How to Shelter Roses for the Winter - Rescue the" Queen of Flowers "from Frost".