Until recently, grapes were considered exclusively southern berries. But now, breeders have bred cold-resistant varieties and hybrids that successfully take root and bear fruit not only in central Russia, but also in the Urals, Siberia, and the Far East. Moreover, in terms of taste and productivity, they may well compete with the usual southern grape varieties. Bazhena is a relatively new hybrid that has already managed to gain popularity among amateur growers.
What does Bazhena grapes look like
The hybrid form of Bazhen grapes is the achievement of the Ukrainian amateur breeder with more than 20 years of experience V.V. Zagorulko His "parents" are two varieties of this culture that are very popular in the post-Soviet space - Arkady and Zaporozhye Gift. Bred at the beginning of the twentieth century, the new variety quickly gained popularity among amateur winegrowers due to its unpretentious care, presentable appearance of bunches and the taste of berries. They even awarded him the nickname "White Miracle."
Bazhena - grapes bred by an amateur breeder
Bazhena - table grapes. Berries can be eaten fresh, they are also used in winemaking and home canning. The variety has a characteristic aroma, thanks to which compotes, jams, preserves, wines acquire a taste that resembles an apple or a cherry. It depends on how ripe the berries were. Present in the taste and light piquant sourness.
Homemade Bazhene grapes preserve characteristic flavor inherent in berries
Bazhen's brushes are quite large. The average cluster weight is about 0.7 kg. With proper agricultural technology and good weather in summer, this figure can reach 1.5-2 kg and even more. Practice shows that the larger the brush, the more berries on it. This is a fairly significant load on the vine, so it is recommended to tie the bunches. On each shoot it is recommended to leave one, maximum 2-3 brushes. The vine is also able to “pull out” a large load, but to the detriment of the quality of the berries. They wrinkle and shrink.
The shape of the cluster is elongated, resembling a cone or cylinder. Most often, it is quite loose, so the berries are more or less evenly lit by the sun. Grapes do not crack, even if the summer is rainy, ripening, can hang on the vine without spoiling for 2-3 weeks. Temperature changes do not negatively affect them.
The brushes of Bazhen grapes are large, with proper care their mass is still increasing
The average weight of the berry is 10 g, individual specimens are up to 15-20 g. The shape is ovoid or cylindrical (length - 4 cm or slightly more, width - 2.2-2.5 cm). The skin is thin, milky-green in color as it ripens and changes to salad-yellowish. Outwardly, Bazhena is very similar to Arcadia, but its berries are almost twice as large. The pulp is very tender, juicy, sweet. It has a taste and aroma inherent only to this hybrid. The taste qualities of grapes by professionals are rated quite high - by 4.5 points out of five possible.
Berries from Bazhen grapes look quite presentable, taste qualities are also highly rated by professionals
The vine is very tall. The shoots are powerful, but still need the "help" of the gardener to hold heavy hands. The leaves are bright green, medium-sized. The flowers are bisexual, pollination occurs independently. The level of ripening of the vines is approximately 80-85%. For grapes, this is an excellent indicator. As a rule, there are no problems with reproduction; hybrid cuttings easily take root.
Bazhen grapes are very tall, a powerful vine must be supported
Bazhena is an early grape. It takes 100-110 days to ripen the berries. In the homeland of the variety (Ukraine), the crop is harvested in the first decade of August, in regions with a more severe climate - at the end of this month or at the beginning of September. Despite the fact that the skin of the berries is thin, they tolerate transportation well and are stored. The first fruiting can be expected three years after the vine is planted in a permanent place.
Berries of Bazhen grapes tolerate transportation well, do not suffer from adverse weather conditions
The hybrid has good immunity. He does not suffer from such a common and very dangerous disease for culture as gray rot. Resistance to mildew and oidium is also not bad - 3.5 points out of five possible. In order to prevent infection with these fungi, prophylactic treatments are sufficient. Os Bazhena is not particularly interested - they are frightened off by a specific flavor inherent in berries. We'll have to fight mainly with birds. Also a significant drawback is the tendency to defeat phylloxera. Bazheny cuttings are not recommended to be planted in areas where the appearance of this pest was noted if less than 4-5 years have passed.
The homeland of Bazheny is Ukraine. Winter hardiness up to -21-24ºС is quite enough for the local climate. But practice shows that the hybrid successfully survives and regularly bears fruit in most of the territory of Russia. It is only necessary to provide him with reliable shelter for the winter. This is especially true for young vines under the age of five. Another option is to plant the Bazheny stalk in the stock of more frost-resistant grapes. But such a procedure requires the gardener to have some experience. Also in this case, the ripening time of the berries may increase.
The high yield of Bazhen grapes makes the variety interesting not only for amateur gardeners, but also for those who grow crops on an industrial scale
Video: description of the hybrid form of Bazhen grapes
Landing and preparation for it
Bazhena, like any other grape, is a light and heat-loving plant. For the culture, well-sun-lit plots are chosen. It is advisable to place it on the southern slope of a gentle hill, closer to the top. Categorically any lowlands are not suitable, where meltwater stands for a long time in the spring, and the rest of the time the raw cold air lingers. Still the vine does not like drafts. Ideally, at a certain distance (2-2.5 m) from the vine, a natural or artificial barrier should be located that would protect it from gusts of wind without obscuring it. It is good if it is made of stone or brick. Warming up during the day, it will give heat to the plant at night.
The place for the vine is chosen so that the site is well warmed up by the sun and the plants have enough space for food
There are no special requirements for the quality of Bazhen soil. Black earth is ideal for grapes, but it can also ripen in relatively poor soils. At the same time, it is desirable that the substrate is light, well passes water and air. The acid-base balance is 5.5-7.0. The root system of the plant is powerful, so groundwater should be located at least 4-5 m from the soil surface. Otherwise, the development of root rot is very likely.
Bazhena’s vines are very tall, so they leave at least 5 m between plants when planting. The same distance is maintained between rows of plantings. It is even better to increase it to 6-7 m, if the area of the site allows. The nearest fruit trees should be at least 5 m, to shrubs - about 2 m.
At the same time, a place should be provided for the installation of trellis. Otherwise, the vines will not withstand the load. The simplest option is metal or plastic pipes of small diameter dug into the ground with a wire stretched over them in several parallel rows. The lower one is located at a distance of 50-70 cm from the surface of the earth, then - 120-140 cm and 180-220 cm. The height of the trellis allows you to adjust the height of the bush of grapes, which greatly facilitates the care of it.
Bazhenu can be planted in spring and autumn. The first option is the only one possible for regions with a continental climate. There it is impossible to predict when frosts will come. And during the summer, the plant will definitely have time to adapt to new living conditions. The optimal time for the procedure is the first half of May. Air at this point should warm up to a minimum of 15 ° C, and the soil at a depth of about 10 cm - to 10-12 ° C.
Autumn planting is practiced mainly in the homeland of the hybrid. Spend it from early September to mid-October. You need to be sure that there are at least two months left before the cold. As practice shows, the vine planted in spring develops faster, but in autumn there is a wider choice of varieties.
Two-year-old grape seedlings take root best. The quality planting material has cut or white roots, shoots are lettuce, the bark is smooth, elastic, evenly colored, not peeling and not wrinkled, without spots resembling mold or rot. Be sure to have several growth buds that should not fall off when touched. Saplings are bought exclusively in specialized stores, nurseries, and other trustworthy places. Only in this case can the quality of planting material be guaranteed.
Grape seedlings are purchased from trusted suppliers only
A landing pit is prepared at least 3-4 weeks before the planned procedure. And with spring planting - in general from the fall. Bazheny’s root system is powerful, the optimal depth is 80-90 cm. The diameter is about the same. Sometimes amateur gardeners plant grapes in trenches about 50 cm deep, but this option is rarely practiced.
Preparing the landing pit as follows. A drainage layer of at least 10 cm thick is required at the bottom. Suitable material is expanded clay, clay shards, pebbles, broken brick, and so on. You also need to remember to dig a plastic pipe of small diameter - through it the plant will receive water. This is the optimal method for watering grapes. The length of the pipe should be such that after filling the pit, it protrudes 10-15 cm above the surface of the soil.
A layer of drainage is mandatory at the bottom of the landing pit for grapes so that the water does not stagnate at the roots
About 10 cm of fertile soddy soil is poured into the bottom of the pit, from above - about the same mixture of humus and peat crumb (1: 1) with the addition of 120-150 g of simple superphosphate, 80-100 g of potassium fertilizer without chlorine and 150-200 g of dolomite flour. This needs to be repeated again and fill the resulting "layer cake" with ordinary soil. Then, 50-70 liters of warm water are poured into the pit and left, covered with any waterproof material. Mineral fertilizing can be replaced with wood ash (approximately 0.5 l). A very light sandy substrate is mixed with powder clay; coarse sand is added to heavy soil.
Humus - a natural remedy to increase soil fertility
The procedure for planting grape seedlings in the soil itself does not differ in complexity:
- A day before the procedure, the seedlings are removed from the containers, examined and healthy roots are shortened by about 3-4 cm. Their length should not exceed 15-18 cm. Dried and blackened cut off completely. Then they are soaked in a solution of any biostimulant with the addition of several crystals of potassium permanganate. You can use both store-bought preparations (Epin, potassium humate, Zircon) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). This is necessary to strengthen the plant's immunity, disinfection and prevention of fungal diseases.
- 3-4 hours before planting, the roots are dipped in pulp from powder clay diluted with water with the addition of any fertilizer based on vermicompost (5-7 ml per liter). By consistency, this mass should resemble a not too thick sour cream. They give her time to dry.
- About an hour before planting, the soil in the planting pit is abundantly watered. When moisture is absorbed, a small mound is formed at the bottom. The seedling is placed on its top, spreading the roots so that they are directed down, and not sticking up and to the sides. It should be tilted at an angle of 40-45º. An exception is cuttings up to 25 cm long, they are placed vertically. The “heel” of the root is oriented south, the growth buds are oriented north.
- The pit is gradually filled with soil, filling it with small portions. The seedling should be shaken periodically, and the earth - carefully compacted with your hands to avoid the formation of air "pockets". In the process, be sure not to fall asleep the root neck. It should be located 5-7 cm above the ground.
- Having fallen asleep to the end, the soil is once again well compacted. Grapes abundantly (30-40 l) watered. When the water is absorbed, the near-stem circle with a diameter of about 60 cm is mulched with peat chips, fine sawdust, humus, and freshly cut grass. You can also tighten it with black plastic wrap. Existing shoots are shortened, leaving 3-4 growth buds. Until the seedling starts growing, it is covered with a cropped plastic bottle.
Planting grapes in the soil differs little from a similar procedure for other seedlings
Video: how to plant grape seedling
Crop Care Recommendations
Bazhen grapes are relatively unpretentious. This is one of his undoubted advantages. Nevertheless, getting a plentiful harvest is impossible without proper care. There is nothing particularly complicated in the agricultural technology of grapes, but you need to first study the recommendations for growing.
Watering
Bazhena, like any other grape, loves moisture. Especially in regular watering need young non-bearing vines. The best way is through plastic pipes dug into the soil. Drop watering does not allow the soil to be wet deep enough, sprinkling should be avoided due to the fact that drops falling on the leaves can provoke the development of rot. In the absence of technical feasibility, water is poured into the annular grooves, the nearest of which is located at least 50 cm from the base of the shoot.
For the first time in a season, grapes are watered as soon as the winter shelter is finally removed. 40-50 l of water are consumed per plant. You can add about 0.5 l of sifted wood ash to it. Then the procedure is carried out 10-12 days before flowering and immediately after it.
If you use cold water for the first time, this will somewhat slow down the "awakening" of grapes from winter "hibernation", accordingly, the risk that the plant will fall under springtime return frosts will decrease. Warm water, in contrast, stimulates growth buds to bloom faster.
As soon as the berries begin to acquire a typical hue for the variety, watering is stopped. The last time the grapes are watered is only a week before shelter for the winter, if autumn is dry and warm. The so-called moisture-charging irrigation is carried out, spending 70-80 liters of water per plant.
Young vines are watered in a different way. In the first 2-3 seasons after planting, the soil is moistened weekly, spending 5-20 liters of water per plant, depending on how hot it is outside. The best time for this is the evening after sunset. You can focus on the grass in the trunk circle. If it starts to dry, it's time to water the grapes.
Water the grapes so as to wet the soil to a sufficient depth, the root system of the plant is powerful and developed
After 1-1.5 months, by the middle of summer, the intervals between watering are doubled. By the end of August, they are stopped altogether, the plant gets by with natural precipitation. To carry out water-charging irrigation or not, the gardener decides on his own, focusing on how rainy the autumn was.
Any grape has a developed powerful root system. The roots go into the soil at least 5-6 m. Therefore, the plant tolerates drought much better than excess moisture. Souring soil that does not have time to dry out may well provoke the development of root rot. The worst thing a gardener can do is to water the vines from a hose or watering can, sparingly, but very often.
Each time after watering, the soil is loosened. If necessary, renew the mulch layer. It is strictly forbidden to water the grapes immediately before and during flowering. The buds from this are very showered. Also, it is not carried out shortly before the planned harvest. The berries may crack, the flesh will become watery, and the taste will not be so pronounced. Water for irrigation should be heated, but sparingly. Too cold inhibits the growth of vines, warm - stimulates the plant to actively form a green mass.
Fertilizer application
Fertilizers introduced into the pit during planting, the vine will be enough for the next 3-4 seasons. In the future, four supplements per year are enough for the plant. The Bazhena variety responds positively to both mineral fertilizers and natural organics, so they can be alternated.
The first time fertilizers are applied in dry form. A mixture of 40-50 g of simple superphosphate, 30-40 g of urea and 20-30 g of potassium sulfate is embedded in grooves 25-30 cm deep, made at a distance of about 0.5 m from the base of the shoots. Then they need to be sprinkled with humus or just fertile soil.
The second top dressing is an infusion of fresh manure, chicken droppings, nettle leaves or dandelion. Prepare it for 3-4 days in a container under a closed lid. Before use, filter and dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10 or 1:15, if it is droppings. 10 l is enough for one plant. Perform the procedure 7-10 days before flowering. After this, nitrogen-containing fertilizers no longer contribute. Their excess stimulates the vine to form a green mass to the detriment of the ripening of the fruit.
Nettle infusion contains nitrogen and other macroelements necessary for the development of grape ash
As soon as the fruits reach the size of a pea, the penultimate top dressing is carried out. Potash (20-30 g) and phosphoric (40-50 g) fertilizers are distributed under plants in dry form or diluted in 10 l of water. It is repeated 15-20 days before harvest.
A month after fruiting, once every 2-3 years, humus (about 50 l) and sifted wood ash (three-liter jar) are distributed in the near-stem circle. Immediately after this, the substrate must be deeply loosened or dug up.
Wood ash is a natural source of phosphorus and potassium
In addition to nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, Bazhena also needs other trace elements. You can independently prepare a solution for spraying, diluting in a liter of water 1-2 g of potassium permanganate, boric acid, copper sulfate or zinc sulfate. If the vine grows in sandy soil, add a drop of iodine.
Complex fertilizers are also suitable (Florovit, Novofert, Plantafol, Aquarin, Master, Mortar, Kemira-Lux). Spraying is carried out exclusively in calm cloudless weather, so that the drops of water remaining on the leaves do not cause sunburn. Experienced gardeners recommend adding about 50 g of granulated sugar per liter of the finished solution, so that the product is better absorbed. And any vegetable oil or glycerin (about 30 ml per liter) will slow down the evaporation.
Novofert, like other complex fertilizers, is used for foliar feeding of grapes
Foliar top dressing in August is excluded. They provoke the formation of new shoots, which do not have enough time to get stronger before the frost and will certainly die as soon as the temperature drops slightly below 0ºС.
Whatever the nutrition, it is important to strictly observe the dosage of the drug recommended by the manufacturer. Excess fertilizer for grapes is much worse than their deficit. Often this is what leads to the fact that clusters do not form.
Vine formation
Bazhen grape hybrid is very tall, shoots ripen well. In this case, more brushes are formed on the vines than the plant can “feed”. Therefore, the load must be standardized, leaving on each shoot one, a maximum of 2-3 clusters. It should be noted that in second-order stepchildren, the crop is not formed in principle, therefore they are removed. But at the same time, the very first buds are able to bear fruit.
In grapes of the Bazhena variety, even the lowest buds are able to bear fruit
Cut off any shoots of grapes not to the point of growth, but leaving "stumps" 2-3 cm high. Damage does not heal, but dry. So the vine is less injured. Slices are made as even as possible, without "breaking up" the wood, in one single motion. Orient them so that they are "directed" inside the bush.
For pruning grapes use only sharpened and sanitized tools
Most of the work on pruning the grapes is postponed until the fall, when the plant is already "hibernating", the sap flow practically stops. You need to wait until all the leaves fall off, but the temperature during the day should be positive. At night, frosts are allowed up to -3-5ºС. Then the branches will become too fragile. If you shorten the shoots in the spring, a lot of the so-called seedling is released, it literally fills the growth buds, which sour and can even rot.
Therefore, in spring only shoots that have broken down under the weight of snow or frozen out are removed. During the summer, unsuccessfully arranged leaves are cut, shading the clusters, and stepsons are broken out, which certainly will not bear fruit. Parts of the plant affected by diseases and pests are immediately removed.
As soon as the shoots reach the lower wire on the support, they are smoothly bent and tied to it, laying bast or other soft material so that the vines do not fray. Do the same with all new young shoots. At the same time, they are not tied at the very end of the branch, but the place is fixed between the second and third growth buds from above.
Autumn pruning of grapes is carried out in two stages. Immediately after fruiting, they get rid of deformed, weak shoots, tops. When the foliage completely falls off, on young plants it will be necessary to leave 3-8 of the most developed and powerful vines.
With adult fruiting bushes, the grapes are a little more complicated. They necessarily remove all of the growth that has formed on the stem below the level of the first wire. On the shoots of this year, which have already grown to the second, all side stepsons are cut off. They also need to be shortened by about 10%.
Then, on each plant at the level of the first wire, you need to choose two shoots with a diameter of 1-1.5 cm, located approximately opposite each other. The one that grows lower is cut short, leaving 3-4 growth buds, forming a shoot of substitution. On the second leave 10-12 "eyes", it will be a new fruit arrow. Next season, two more shoots are chosen, and so on, until their number reaches 8-10 pieces. This is the so-called fan pattern of vine formation. To maintain the desired configuration, make sure that the inner sleeves are shorter than the outer ones. Old non-fruiting shoots are gradually disposed of, cutting them to the level of 2-3 growth buds every 5-8 years.
The easiest way to form a vine is a fan configuration
Video: recommendations for the formation of a fan configuration of the vine
Preparing the plant for winter
Low frost resistance is perhaps the only significant drawback of Bazhen grapes. Therefore, shelter for the winter is mandatory for him.
First carry out the so-called katarovka. Around the base of the vine they dig a groove about 20 cm deep. All the thin roots that are caught are cut to the main core root. “Wounds” are dusted with wood ash, crushed chalk or activated carbon, the groove is covered with fine sand. In the near-stem circle, the mulch layer (best of peat or humus) is renewed, bringing its thickness at the base of the trunk to 20-25 cm.
After the autumn pruning, the vines are neatly uncoupled from the support, laid out on the ground, if necessary, they are fastened with wooden or wire “staples” and covered with leaves, leaves, sawdust, wood shavings, lapnik. It is advisable to add several branches of elderberry, its smell scares off rodents. Then the vines are wrapped in several pieces with burlap, rags, tarpaulins, lutrasil, spanbond, and other breathable material. From above, as soon as enough snow falls, a snowdrift is thrown. During the winter, it settles, so it will need to be renewed 2-3 times, while breaking the hard crust of the infusion on the surface.
The Bazhene grapevine must be protected from the cold, even if the climate in the region is not particularly harsh
Remove the shelter not earlier than the air warms up to 5ºС. If there are reasonable doubts that spring back frosts are still possible, first several holes for ventilation can be made in the material. Another way to protect the vine from the cold is to spray Epin diluted in cold water. If you carry out the procedure a couple of days before the expected frosts, the effect will last the next 8-10 days.
No need to rush to remove shelter from the vine, the air should warm up enough
Video: how to properly prepare the vine for wintering
Diseases, pests and their control
Bazhen grapes are distinguished by good immunity. Therefore, it rarely suffers from fungal diseases typical of culture, but never from gray rot. To avoid infection, preventative treatments are enough. You can use both old proven drugs that have proven effective (Bordeaux fluid, copper sulfate), and modern copper-based products (Horus, Skor, Topaz, Kuprozan). Fungicides of biological origin — Alirin-B, Baikal-EM, Bayleton, Ridomil-Gold — cause the least damage to the landings. The use of other means is excluded 20-25 days before harvest and is limited during flowering.
Bordeaux liquid - a proven fungicide that can be purchased or made independently
For the first time, grapes and soil in the garden are sprayed for prevention when the vine gives an increase of about 10 cm (4-5 new leaves). The second treatment is carried out on unblown buds, the third - when the fruits reach the size of a pea. It is advisable to change drugs regularly.
Wasps do not particularly favor this grape. They are discouraged by the specific taste inherent in the pulp of berries. Nevertheless, it is advisable to destroy the hives that are on the garden plot, and fight the insects themselves with the help of special pheromone or home-made traps (containers filled with honey, jam, sugar syrup diluted with water).
A grid with small cells is the only reliable way to prevent birds from reaching the grapes
But the birds to Bazhen do not pass by. To protect the crop from damage, you need to throw a fine-mesh strong mesh on the vines. Or you can "pack" in this way each bunch separately. This is the only truly reliable way to protect the grapes. All other methods (stuffed animals, rattles, shiny ribbons, light and sound repellers) give only a short-term effect. Within a few days, the birds realize that terrible-looking objects are unable to do any real harm to them and then do not pay any attention to them.
Birds are able to deprive the gardener of a significant portion of the grape harvest
The most dangerous pest for Bazhen is grape aphid or phylloxera. There are two of its varieties - leaf and root. In the first case, small greenish-yellow insects literally cling to young leaves, tops of shoots, buds, fruit ovaries. In the second, the pest settles at the base of the shoots. Larvae and adults feed on organic substances contained in tissues. In this case, the normal metabolism is disturbed, the affected areas are deformed, become swollen, gradually discolour and dry out.
Leaf phylloxera is easy to identify by the characteristic swelling on the leaves of grapes
A plant strongly affected by leaf phylloxera is immediately uprooted and burned as soon as possible. Over the next 4-5 years, grapes cannot be planted not only at this very place, but also within a radius of 30 m from it. Removing the root phylloxera is even more difficult, so the period of “quarantine” can stretch for 10-15 years.
When the root phylloxera is detected, the vine is immediately uprooted, it is very difficult to get rid of this pest
This indicates that special attention should be paid to prevention. An effective folk remedy is parsley, planted between rows and around the perimeter of the vineyard. Non-blooming leaf buds and plants in the second leaf phase are treated with a solution of Actellic, Fozalon, Kinmix, Confidor. The third treatment is carried out when 10-12 new leaves appear. But these drugs destroy only adults without harming the larvae and eggs. If pests are detected, BI-58, Zolon is used, carefully following the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the frequency of treatments and dosage.
Practice shows that the smell of parsley effectively discourages phylloxera from planting grapes
Gardeners reviews
Bazhena - table hybrid form of grape breeding V.V. Zagorulko. Vigorous vine, early ripening (110-115 days). The bunch is large, from 1-2 kg, the berry is white, elongated, beautiful in shape, weighing up to 20 g. The taste is harmonious and pleasant, it has a varietal aroma. The pulp is dense, juicy with a crunch. It is well pollinated. The berry can hang on the vine for a long time, without losing its taste. Resistance to diseases is average (3-3.5 points), frost resistance up to -21ºС. The ripening of the shoots is good, the load pulls well, the cuttings root well. High-yielding and high-quality grapes.
Nadezhda NV//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=257.0
In our vineyard Bazhena matures one and a half weeks earlier than Arcadia. Bushes are strong. The flower is bisexual. The bunch is large, conical or cylindrical, sometimes branched, of medium density. The average mass of the bunch is 700 g, the maximum - up to 1.5 kg. Berries, yellow, large. The taste of the pulp is harmonious, with full ripening there are light fruit tones, from cherry to apple, depending on the sugar accumulation during ripening. The pulp is fleshy-juicy, the skin of berries is not felt, sugar is gaining, like a variety of Arcadia. By berry size: Arcadia is half the size of Bazheni berries in our vineyard. I would not say that Bazhena is not able to pull the load ... Easy! It is not inferior to Arcadia in anything. She will work like a horse. There is potential for this form. Our bush from the author is already 5 years old. The vine is powerful, on shoots there were 3-4 inflorescences, left two in the last year. The vine pulled the load, but to the detriment of the pulp, I was very pleased with the result. The berries were just a sight for sore eyes! And the pulp is dense with easily torn and edible skin. Of course, I will let the grapes hang a little longer, because the sugar content of the pulp is only 15-16%, but they are very large and simply attract attention: each guest asks to cut.
Fursa Irina Ivanovna//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=257.0
Bazhena just struck me with both the look and the taste. The berry is very large, dense, with a crunch, a couple of small seeds are difficult to find in such a huge berry, the skin is very thin and invisible when eaten. I got high sugar on my site. Of course, there is no load yet, but I hope that it will be. My growth strength is average, at the moment there are two three-meter tall vines with a diameter of 10 cm and matured by more than half. True, I don’t really like this form of bunch, which, it seems to me, will be more like a ball, but the size of the berries and excellent appearance, coupled with good taste, make Bazheni clusters very attractive.
Vlad grape//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=257.0
Someone might not like Bazhen grapes. I don’t know why, they mostly criticize her for her weak taste. I like it - it’s very tender, without extraneous aromas, and if you take into account the early ripening period and the size of berries that surprises everyone (perhaps for this period it has practically no competitors in size), then this is generally a unique variety. In addition, the clusters lie practically on the ground and there are no signs of fungal diseases, however, there are none.
Evgeny Polyanin//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=257.0
At first, he wanted to remove Bazhenu because of his inexpressive taste, and then changed his mind. The vine is trouble-free, not sick. My growth is not particularly strong, but the load pulls properly, it ripens well. It takes up a little space, and the harvest is not bad. I keep it until it fully ripens, then it diverges well among relatives (I do not drive grapes to the market, I just distribute it to my relatives and treat friends and neighbors, and let the excess go to wine or juice).
Vladimir//vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=257.0
Bazhena in my conditions ripens by August 20, cut the bunches with scissors (remove part of the berries at the pea stage) and shorten the bunches to ripen more evenly. Withstood prolonged rains without cod.
Tatyana Kitaeva//lozavrn.ru/index.php?topic=297.0
Bazhena’s berry is very large. On the site not very long ago, it shows itself not bad: a very large berry, beautiful clusters. Good yield.
Pioneer 2//lozavrn.ru/index.php?topic=297.0
My Bazhena does not want to grow, for two years in the same state. Only 50 cm of growth.
Vadim//lozavrn.ru/index.php?topic=297.0
Bush Bazheny fourth year. In the second year I left two signaling lights, last year the grapes were badly damaged by two spring frosts, in this I wintered very badly. But there was no harvest. It looks very beautiful, even despite the unusual greenish color. They say that if the clusters are well lit by the sun, the berries turn a little yellow. But it is impossible to pick leaves early around the clusters - the berries suffer from sunburn. She did a little work with scissors at the pea stage, but it was necessary to thin out the bunches stronger, they turned out to be denser. The taste is average, it can be better, but you can’t call it bad, as they sometimes say about it.
Natalya, Alchevsk//www.sadiba.com.ua/forum/showthread.php?p=861202
I am also very pleased with Bazhena. It collects sugar well, there is no cracking of berries, it does not crumble, it can hang on a bush after ripening.
Valeryf//www.xn--7sbabggic4ag6ardffh1a8y.xn--p1ai/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6747
Bazhen grapes appeared in the public domain at the beginning of the twentieth century. Amateur gardeners quickly appreciated the novelty of selection. The hybrid owes its popularity to relative unpretentiousness in leaving, resistance to diseases, typical for culture, productivity and taste qualities of berries. A relative disadvantage is not very high frost resistance, but this problem can be solved by constructing a shelter for the winter. As practice shows, the plant successfully survives in regions with a temperate climate.
